Thoughts on Surfing

Went over to the coast to Santa Cruz today. A stunning day, and only 45 minutes’ drive. I’d read in the guide somewhere that Santa Cruz has a huge amusement park along its famous boardwalk, and it is just that: huge. And noisy and straight out of an 80s teen movie. Fantastically corny, and so not our cup of tea! Had some very average lunch there and then headed further down the coast to one of the town’s surfing spots, to watch a longboard competition, at a place with the auspicious name of Pleasure Point (which it got courtesy of its famous brothel that attracted visitors in the 19th century, and which was torn down recently). What a beautiful spot, oozing surfy, chilled out laid-back-ness from every pore. And plenty of nice things to look at. Young guys with honed, toned, smooth brown torsos and my favourite muscles on show, the obliques, which always make my heart skip a beat (I think even more than nice shoulders). If I had a son, I’d definitely encourage him to surf – surfers just have the best bodies!!! And there are girls on skateboards, tanned old guys with big shoulders, ponytails and paunches, kids with bleached hair and flip flops… and we even saw a surfing dog.

On the way back home, there was a guy standing by the roadside, hitchhiking. He had long blond hair, an old rucksack, and a surfboard, and was holding a sign that simply said “South”…

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